The New York Times Magazine reported recently that “French Women Worry About Getting Fat, Too.” In an article by Susan Dominus, statistics show that while the obesity rate in France was 8.5 percent in 1997, it’s nearly doubled in the past 15 years, reaching 14.5 percent.
Scandaleux!
Apparently, American eating habits – and possibly more – have infiltrated. And it’s an unwanted, unhealthy, and unexpected assault on French culture.
So there we have it. The French – icons of svelte style – are getting fatter. Snacking habits are worsening, once relegated to something sensible for the adults (if anything at all) and the delicious bit of baguette with chocolate for school children, le goûter. French women are battling insufficient time to exercise, and apparently families no longer sit to eat together as often.
Sound familiar?
Believe it or not, Jenny Craig now has a program in France, as does Weight Watchers.
So I’m thinking. I’m conjuring. I’m running the film in my mind of all the days, weeks, months I’ve spent in France, over the course of more than 30 years. What I see in my recollections (and photographs with friends) are trim women, everywhere – except perhaps for the older – much older women, on occasion.
Cultural Calamity?
Though I’ve gone back and forth between the US and France since I was a teenager, my last trip to Paris was a few years back, to review art. So I defer to those who are residents or have visited more recently.
It’s worth noting that the Times article provides considerable coverage of the cultural differences in presenting both Jenny Craig and Weight Watchers programs to the French, how serious the notion of a “diet” is, and the belief that meal times should be shared in a group – rather than alone.
Personally, I bemoan the change to our own diminished family meal time though I not only understand it, I admit to succumbing for many years, caught in the single mother juggle.
Likewise, the notion of “grazing” as healthy eating is now being questioned, and we already know that our frequent snacking (sweet and salty) is a bad habit. Shall we specifically point out the role of fast food, or leave that one for each of us to consider?
Bad (Health) Habits, French Faux-Pas?
Both loss of family meal time and snacking habits are implicated in the article, as problematic trends which which run contrary to traditional French attentiveness to quality, quantity, and company when it comes to what and how you eat.
With all the press on French lifestyle that we’ve seen in the media lately – the advantages to Parisian parenting, the government’s contribution to upping the odds for a woman’s post-partum pleasure, studies telling us that French women over 50 have steamier love lives, and no doubt there’s more – how sad would it be if key cultural underpinnings are waning, as the worst of an American lifestyle seeps into French households?
Is appreciation of quality – shared time around the table with good food and wine – truly being sacrificed in the train-train de la vie – possibly running off track?
French Men, French Women: Fact, Fiction, or Myth
Incidentally, I popped by Le Figaro Madame – a fashion magazine with plenty of good articles – and what was once referred to as “métro, boulot, dodo” – the routine of heading to work, putting in the day, then coming home tired and dropping into bed – is transformed into “métro, boulot, libido – zéro” – an indication that fatigue and stress are impacting the French in ways we may be altogether too familiar with.
And don’t our eating habits worsen when we sleep less and carry more responsibilities?
Fact or fiction, we cling to our myths about the French, though we may see signs of slippage. We adore French style, French restaurants, French products; we nurture fantasies of the French man or French woman; we laud their powers of persuasion in an admittedly luscious language; we extol their finesse in amorous arenas.
We aspire to certain aspects of French lifestyle precisely because it doesn’t resemble the affinity for speed and quantity we’ve grown accustomed to, where slowing down and quality are better suited – as in treating food, drink, relationship, discussion, and yes – lovemaking – with greater reverence.
If the French are putting on a few pounds, personally, I couldn’t care less (though the women involved might). If their health and well-being are at risk, that’s an entirely other story – just as it is, for me, when we address issues of fat and obesity in American society.
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One of my work colleagues before I retired was a lovely French woman who was nearly 6′ tall and very wide. She only wore black slacks, shoes and loose black blouses, with various scarves. Since knowing her I’ve known that book about French women not getting fat was wrong. Granted, she lives here in Britain…and obesity is a real problem here.
Shelley, Thanks for reading and commenting. The obesity problem in the U.K. – has it also been growing in the past 20 years or so? Is it also a matter of changing food product (fast food?), lifestyle, economic pressures? Is it affecting children as it is in the U.S.?
I love everything French too and would love to live there someday..soon. The idea of the French woman leaving half the food on their plate as habit always comes to mind when I look down at mine and see barely a morsel left. Maybe no more per your posting. More distressful is the dissolution of the family dinner time. I’ve tried to hold this sacred at least two days a week in my household, but with limited success. Who are these folks you read about that have the whole family assembled and talk about the day’s experiences and learnings? Are they real or some nice idea straight out of fiction? I’m jealous. It’s true even when we are dining together, we’re so tired and stressed, just speaking is an effort. Maybe we can connect on Facebook. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Maryl. Lovely to have you here. I understand your point about the demise of family dinner time. And I know what you mean about trying to hold a certain number of dinners as sacred. (You make me feel better when I hear that. 7 nights a week? Even 5? How do people manage? How do single parents manage?)
Your point about being tired and stressed even when gathered around the table is also well taken. Beneath all of this is a pace and lifestyle that is anything but conducive to connections, even with our most loved family members.
Leaving half the food on your plate means someone – you or someone else – is putting too much on it. Usually French portion sizes were much more realistic than American ones (here in Québec, they lie somewhere in-between).
It is obvious that the impact of corporate food and unhealthy living environments (sedentary lifestyle, stress and overwork, fewer “famiily meals”) has an impact throughout the Western world and beyond.
And while there are far fewer heavy people in France than in the US, or even here, there has never been a time (except in times of famine – the most recent there would probably be the 2nd World War) where almost everyone is thin. There is a very strong pressue on people, especially women, and especially in the chic arrondissements of Paris and other major cities.
I’m so glad you raise the portion size issue. The clean your plate mentality (or ‘get your money’s worth) certainly leads to overeating or terrible waste.
“slowing down and quality are better suited.” There’s the truth of it for me.
For life in general, or at least for several moments each day, look for that in what we eat, the “stuff” we fill our homes with, in the relationships (romantic, friendly, familial) we nurture and the clothes we wear (fewer pieces but taking the time to purchase or only hang onto items that are well made/comfortable and make us feel good). This slower rhythm and higher quality invite joy and better health. French or American.
Oh my, why am I seeing this just as I am out the door to dinner (which is promised to be à la plancha, a healthy version of BBQ)? Thank you so much for asking, BLW (initials far more important that LBD)–here is my majorly self-edited comment for that article:
“In the last ten years, I have seen the shift in shopping carts here in France. Before, it was yes, all fruits and veggies, meats and fish, things for cooking. Now, I see little but processed foods and a few basics. And so much soda! Something I never saw in the past. Yes, families still eat together but what they are eating has changed as their time together has been limited (both parents working, an increase in after school activities for the children), just as with the family in the article. Nor do I hear of people reuniting with their extended families for the big Sunday dinner anymore. Things are changing rapidly and while the people I know are still extremely proud of their culinary heritage, I see very few putting it into practice on a regular basis. And yes, I have noticed that both adults and especially children are much heavier than they used to be.”
Kids are fat here now, often. As in all of the kids on my block save for the little guy downstairs who is raised by his strict Grandmother. I see a LOT of overweight adults, especially younger women–they don’t seem to be particularly hung up about it either. And yes, I do believe it is the stress and yes, I have also read that HALF of young couples today are simply too tuckered to have sex on any sort of regular basis. And so where are they turning to for their extra little “plaisir”? Yep, le snacking. This is what I see here in my small town in Provence and I imagine that the others could have a different take entirely. But I don’t honestly see that my contemporaries cling to any of the famous French cultural icons–things are changing at the speed of light. To end with something positive, I do see even the busiest of families at least trying to eat together, even if that means they are heating something up rather than cooking. I actually don’t think that I know of any family that doesn’t eat toghether, just like I did every night in the Midwest while growing up.
PS. My teeth were clacking too hard to type after reading yesterday’s post. Thank you for being so honest and so direct. Brave, brave lady.
Heather, Thank you for this thorough response – even as you dash! I am so disheartened to hear this, truly. And your comment regarding couples being too tuckered out for sex is right in keeping with the linked article to Madame Figaro (it’s en français). And I admit – that bit of information flies in the face of everything I know of French “quality” culture as well.
I’m glad to hear that families are still eating together, where you are. That has always been one of the greatest pleasures I shared when living in France, or even on business trips.
I have noticed some larger women, but very few. I live in a small village and many moms stay home and are quite active on the farms. That being said when I have come across “obesity” you are talking generally 20-30 lbs overweight and pressure is strong from doctors to get on track (fear of cardiovascular disease, diabetes, stroke, etc. ) and if someone is really overweight (such as a friend of mine…a good 65 lbs + or —) her doctor has already talked to her about about doing a bypass and then the tummy tuck (and all the rest that sags) is paid for by socialized medicine…she needs courage and time (she has small children). The medical claim is that for those hugely overweight, once lost only 10% retain the loss…
The “establishment” seems to be on it. During food commercials (which are not permitted to be marketed towards kids Saturday mornings) there is a health warning/ “Il faut manger sane et bouger” . Many children eat at the “cantine”/school, but it is healthful, nutritous , homemade food and quite varied. Most French children are not picky eaters and if given a “treat” they will look at the clock to make sure it is” l’heure de gouter”. THERE is NO SNACKING. And you will rarely (if ever) see someone driving or walking while eating. All families will at least eat dinner together in the evenings. Restaurants are only for social occasions, a few times a year.
Although, there is the lure of video games and tv in some households. Most here have chores, homework, etc. You see plenty of bicycling on the weekends, along with sporting activities… and the changing of pastures!
Some working mom’s buy “prepared”/processed foods due to time constraints which
was unheard of a few years ago. The grandparents generally have a garden if the parents don’t and the starter dish is generally a vegetable (soup, grated carrots, sliced tomatoes, etc.)
I would say it is not much of a problem in an agricultural community and when it is support is offered, prior to it getting out of hand (Jenny Craig, Weight Watchers). In the FEW cases it has gotten largely out of hand, support is “serious” and “swift” and paid for. It is not considered to be in the norm to be overweight and most people will avoid the predicament.
Thank you for commenting, La Bergère. This may be one of those differences – in France at least – between urban versus more suburban/rural communities. That the culture is so disapproving of poor eating / overweight may, in fact, work in favor of keeping things under control. And the fact that support is “serious and swift and paid for” (presumably a medical issue) – that seems very significant.
It’s interesting that the “stay at home moms” are busy working on the farms and therefore, not gaining, and also, exercising on the weekends. (Your note on grandparents using produce fresh from their gardens reminds me of my European mother-in-law who plucked from her garden daily, to make fresh salads and soups, with whatever was seasonal.)
I really appreciate your stopping in and sharing your experience with us.